White wine and cornflakes

Even before the recession I had a rule about buying supermarket wine of paying no more than £5 per bottle, safe in the knowledge that there will always be something decent being discounted each week, as long as one is not fussy about the country of origin. This usually leads me to interesting creations from the New World, some highly successful discoveries, and some pretentious ways of describing plonk.

This week saw a bottle that normally retails at close to ten quid come within the orbit of my pricing policy, from an Australian vintner called Tempus Two. Ignoring the obvious frippery designed to make it look different - metal label, beer bottle-style cap instead of cork - I was drawn to the copy for an example of the vapid art of wine marketing.

Apparently the contents are a "vision" that seems to be disarmingly honest: "It's all about a combination of new wave winemaking techniques and innovative packaging". 'New wine in new bottles', you might say. It contains "lifted" aromas of passion fruit, kiwi fruit and, oddly, musk. So if the taste of deer on heat is your thing, how can you enjoy this drink? Apparently the "crisp frizzante finish" is perfect "for enjoying at brunch, lunch and dinner", which is helpful to avoid accidentally serving it at breakfast.